WASHINGTON (AP) — For the first time in more than a quarter century, Americans have a new option when buying sunscreen: a skin protective chemical it has long been a go-to option in Europe and other parts of the world.
THE US Food and Drug Administration approved bemotrizinol – sometimes called BEMT – in June. The first sunscreens containing it are now hitting U.S. store shelves, including formulas from Neutrogena and other manufacturers.
Dermatologists say the chemical serves an important role market gap by offering broad protection, like the most famous sunscreen ingredients, but without their cosmetic drawbacks, including white streaks.
BEMT is backed by decades of safety data, including studies showing it has minimal absorption through the skin. This is a problem with some older sunscreen chemicals.
“It’s not a brand new ingredient that you’ll be the first person to try,” said Dr. Jennifer Stein, a dermatologist at NYU Langone Health.
Here’s what you need to know:
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New ingredient provides broad, streak-free protection
To be effective, sunscreens must protect against the two forms of ultraviolet light that can damage skin: UVB rays, which cause most sunburns, and UVA rays, which cause skin problems. greatest risk of skin cancer and wrinkles.
Sunscreens that block both forms are labeled “broad-spectrum protection.” Those that don’t must carry an FDA warning label.
BEMT is the first chemical-based sunscreen in the United States to offer this dual protection. Previously, manufacturers had to mix multiple ingredients to protect against both UVA and UVB rays.
“This ingredient provides a solution to what is currently a significant gap in UVA protection,” said David Andrews, scientific director of the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit organization that calls for stricter standards for sun protection.
A different class of sunscreens, using minerals such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, have long been shown to provide strong protection against both forms of ultraviolet light. These mineral-based formulas work by physically blocking harmful rays from the skin.
But some people — especially those with darker skin tones — tend to avoid them because they cause white streaks and discoloration. In other cases, people don’t like their texture or consistency.
“They are good sunscreens,” Stein said. “But for people who aren’t super inclined to use them — maybe they don’t like the way they feel on their skin — it’s a nice option.”
There is less skin penetration with the new formula
The fact that chemical-based sunscreens are absorbed through the skin means they need to be carefully studied to ensure they don’t build up in the body to dangerous levels.
Last month, the FDA revoked the approval of an older chemical ingredient, oxybenzone, after determining that it was “absorbed through the skin to a greater extent than previously thought.”
This is not a problem with BEMT.
“It’s too large a molecule to actually penetrate through the skin and be absorbed into the bloodstream,” Stein said. “Old chemical sunscreens contained small molecules.”
As part of its safety review, the FDA reviewed studies of BEMT conducted in more than 500 patients by Dutch manufacturer DSM Nutritional Products. Levels of the chemical absorbed through the skin were almost undetectable, studies found.
The agency’s reviewers said research in people who used sunscreen daily for up to three weeks showed that BEMT “did not cause irritation” or allergic reactions. As a result, the FDA designated the ingredient “generally recognized as safe and effective,” alongside older mineral ingredients zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
More than a dozen other ingredients are currently used in U.S. sunscreens, but the FDA said it will require additional evidence to support their safety and effectiveness. The FDA review is part of an ongoing effort to review ingredients in U.S. sunscreens that began in 2019.
More evidence needed on impact on coral reefs
Scientists have shown that certain sunscreen ingredients can trigger bleaching and damage coral reefs. This led to the banning of two chemical ingredients – oxybenzone, the ingredient recently targeted by the FDA, and octinoxate – in Hawaii and parts of Florida. It is estimated that about 25% of the sunscreen people apply to their skin is when they swim or wade in the ocean.
The U.S. government does not classify the environmental impact of sunscreens, and marketing claims such as “reef-safe” or “reef-friendly” have no standard definition or requirements. The European Union’s environmental agency found “limited evidence of environmental toxicity” with BEMT, but longer-term research is needed.
Mineral ingredients like zinc oxide are generally considered safer for the environment, although some experts recommend staying away from so-called nano formulations. These products are made from tiny particles that are more likely to be inhaled or absorbed by marine organisms.
Older chemicals were often unstable
Experts say BEMT has another key advantage: It doesn’t break down quickly in the sun. This poses a particular problem for avobenzone, the only other chemical ingredient that filters UVA light.
“Avobenzone is known to be particularly unstable on its own, and a lot of work and reformulation efforts have gone into trying to find ways to stabilize it,” Andrews said. “BEMT is significantly more stable.”
As with all sunscreens, dermatologists say it’s important to reapply every few hours, more frequently if you swim or sweat a lot.
Additionally, people shouldn’t rely solely on sunscreen when spending time outdoors, Stein said. Taking breaks in the shade, wearing a hat and sun protective clothing are all important protections.
“Sunscreen is only part of an overall sun protection plan,” Stein said. “Clothes are even better.”
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